Saturday, 29 April 2017

LIVE PROJECT : COS #17

Wednesday26th, Thursday 27th and Friday 28th April:

I had the Wednesday and Thursday off uni as I wasn't timetabled in, however I was very productive at home instead as I knew there wouldn't of been a lot of table space or free sewing machines available on uni campus.  I cut out my coat toile in medium weight calico, and stitched it together creating the shell of the coat. 


- IMAGE OF COAT PRE-ALTERATIONS -

On the Friday when I returned to university, as a group we had a toile review with two of our tutors; Jodie and Alena.  We went through the group progress, showing them what we had already toiled and what was to be completed.  Firstly, I showed my trousers to them which were both agreed that they were ready to be made, which was pleasing to hear.  I then showed my coat toile displaying it on Charlie (a team member but also our model).  A few areas were discussed that I needed to alter/adapt, such as...



 - The collar that was grown onto the front flap wasn't the correct shape on the first toile and laid too flat against the neck.  Therefore, I cut into the collar at multiple parts and opened up these slashes (pinning spare calico scraps behind to hold into place.)  This added length, opened up the collar and made the CB correct - before it was slanted out of shape.  I then will add 2cm seam allowance to the CB of the collar too, and digitise this into the Lectra system.


-The sleeve hem was too wide so I will alter this by making it 10cm smaller. The sleeve was also too long in length due to lowering the shoulder/sleeve head, and therefore I plan to take off 5cm off the hem line which still allows for 2cm turn up (7cm 'taken off' in total).


- I need to lower the under arm seam and thus reshape the arm hole and sleeve head. This was because the coat was a little tight on the shoulder area and little movement could be made with the arms due to this.


Another alteration that was made to our attention is to be consistent in the lengths of our garments.  For example, as our outfits walk down the catwalk we want each garment to look part of a collection, and therefore continuity is key.  Leona's poncho is made quite long and so is my coat so it was pointed out that we should make both garments similar in length so that it is made clear this length in outwear is a trend that we believe will be in Autumn/Winter 2018.  

After the alterations were noted, we double checked the fabric and in fact realised it was not how we remembered it to be.  It is in fact a dark grey knit which has been bonded to a black lightweight cotton to give it the soft appearance and feel of a jersey like fabric.  We analysed whether or not this was a suitable fabric choice due to wanting my garment to be a coat and an outerwear piece.  We draped the fabric onto Charlie - placing the knit down so the front flap would reveal the right side. However, we thought this fabric could still work, and if I got rid of the storm flap, and put a facing on the flap it would make the garment become a sort of cardigan jacket type of clothing piece.  Due to the construction and weight of the fabric we also thought it wouldn't be suitable to bind the edges (like I wanted to) but instead overlock the seams.

Tuesday, 25 April 2017

LIVE PROJECT : COS #16

TUESDAY 25th APRIL :

As my trousers were successful, I decided to move onto my coat re-toile.  Over Easter break, I made my initial toile using the pattern I made just before I went home for two weeks.  Here some pictures of that toile...


I wasn't happy with the fit of the coat, as I imagined it to be more oversized and 'relaxed style', therefore when I made my pattern adjustments I just didn't quite emphasise the nature of the coat how I desired it to be.  However, by making this initial toile made me realise this and it then became easier to adjust the adaptations I wanted to make.

I decided that I wanted to drop the sleeve seam, however as I do not have a side seam this became a struggle; as the arm hole is literally just a hole in the pattern piece but once seam allowance is added it disrupts the circle (see image of pattern piece below.)



To do this it what easier for me to unpick and cut up half of the initial toile as I could the physically see the new pattern pieces and digitise these into Lectra.  I then also wanted a one piece sleeve instead of a two piece sleeve - and wanted the seam to be on the top of the arm so that it aligns with the shoulder seam.  I widened the sleeve width as well as it seems a little tight to start with, and especially as it is a coat it needs to be bigger so the wearer can wear it with other clothing underneath (such as shirts, knitwear etc.)

I lengthened the jacket too, and made it wider so appeared more oversized. I have also re-adjusted the centre front and thus extended it so that the front flaps/lapels will be bigger in size.  In addition to this i grew on a piece to the front of the jacket to act as a collar so that the lapel continues slightly around to the back of the neck.  As I will have two in-seam pockets (one either side of the jacket on the diagonal seam), I created a pocket bag which I will use on my second toile when inputting the pockets to the coat.

Using Marker Manager, I created a lay plan for my pattern to be printed out but also created a lay plan for fabric so that I could see what would approximately be my efficiency.



As the efficiency is only 85% and I ideally wanted it to be higher I may adjust some of the shapes of my pattern pieces so that they slot together better; for example; I could adjust the shape of the point on the storm flap so that it sits more together when placed above the side bodice piece on the lay plan.    I created a 3D toile of my coat too before printing it off as it helped me see what the adjustments would look like, but to also help me make any last minute adjustments here and there.  



LIVE PROJECT : COS #15

MONDAY 24th APRIL:

First thing on Monday morning, I printed off my trouser pattern pieces, so that I could complete my (hopefully final) trouser toile.  After all the adjustments and panelling differences I made I was positive that this toile would fit correctly, and aesthetically look the way I envisioned.  Using a medium weight calico, I cut out all the pattern pieces and stitched these together.  I decided that I wanted two welt pockets on the back of the trousers.  I followed an existing sample pattern that I had for welt pockets and stitched accordingly.  I made the opening of the pocket 15cm wide, with a pocket bag that was approximately 15cm deep as well.  However when I tried the final toile on the model, I asked his opinion on the pockets and I was advised to make the pocket bag a little deeper, so I digitised in the pocket pattern pieces and amended to the feedback given.



On my final trousers, I will also add top stitching to the seams, binding to the inside seams, and drawstring in the waistband with eyelet holes.

Sunday, 23 April 2017

LIVE PROJECT : COS #14

FRIDAY 21st MAY:

Presentation Day.  After practicing for a few days now, with everything and everyone ready to go, we all felt fully prepared for the presentation to the COS team.  We decided to pop into uni on the day before as well (as a group) to finalise what was being said to ensure everyone was comfortable and confident, because as tea leader I was eager for everyone to feel confident and knowledgable if any questions were asked or feedback given by the COS team.  After the difficult start to the morning with technical issues on the receiving end, we had a delayed start with the presentations, and in the end we had to film ourselves and thus send these videos to COS instead.  Not being affected by the pressure and nerves, we all clearly spoke - for about 10 minutes - about our group and our collection. Once we finished our tutors gave us positive feedback about how professional we spoke and discussed our collection, along with the precise and professional-looking images and content which supported our speech.  This was really nice to hear from or tutors, as I feel it definitely motivated me, and made me feel like we were on track with our work and our hard work so far had been noticed and appreciated.  Although we didn't receive immediate feedback regarding our collection, due to the technical issues, we carried on with our group work - mainly toile developments- straight away.

...

When we returned to the Lectra Suite, I digitised in my new trouser pattern pieces that I completed on the Tuesday session (see last blog post.) By using the digitising software and board, it allowed me to quickly and precisely replicate my pattern pieces, that were in calico, to create a pattern that I could edit and manipulate from it.  Once digitised, I also re-measured the waistband we made on the toile and made a pattern piece for this too.


I followed this up by putting these pattern pieces into a variant, creating a 'desk of stitches' plan and putting the pattern pieces into 3D fitting.



Using the pre-postioning tools, as well as curvature, rotation, and distancing elements, I put the trousers onto the model to see how they would generally fit (as I had to lower the crotch slightly.)  I used the elasticated tool on 3D Modaris to gather the waistband so it becomes more visually truthful, as the waistband is elasticated on the actual garment.

(the waistband will be half the size in the image, as the pattern is folded in half when stitched together.)

When I was happy with the fit, I tried and successfully achieved to put the fabric that I am using onto the trousers, so I can see what it is going to look like eventually.  I scanned in our fabric swatches that we are using in the collection and to a snapshot of the fabric I would ideally like to use for he trousers (saving this as a png file.)  Selecting the fabric and material drop-down option on 3D, I created a "new" fabric and when put on edit mode - I selected the image I took from the scanned image.  When agreed the fabric was allowed to be "dropped" into the desired pattern pieces; where I also scaled up and moved till it seemed aesthetically correct.


Thursday, 20 April 2017

LIVE PROJECT : COS #13

TUESDAY 18th APRIL :

After spending two weeks away from university timetable, today is the first day back.  We started by getting together in our group and discussing what had been done/achieved over the easter break, as even though we had stayed in contact with each other via messaging - none of us had actually seen other group members since.  According to our initial timetabled sessions, in todays class we were meant to have our mid-unit presentation to COS; discussing what he have created and designed.  However, as there are more members from the COS team available on Friday 21st, the presentation was re-scheduled to the Friday.  This benefitted our group as it allowed us to in todays session to organise and prepare for Friday so that we were 100% confident with what we were all explaining, expressing and discussing.

We decided that our key points of interest that we will talk about to the COS team are ...


Our concept and initial inspiration:

Explaining that we are an all menswear group, a collection that consists of 8 outfits (1 being a unisex outfit, and 1 being a teen outfit), based around street style and casual sports luxe vibes - bring the activewear to everyday wear making it appear a more 'thoughtful' outfit (as oppose to wearing tracksuit.), talking about our initial inspiration evolving around brutalist architecture, micro living and geometric shapes.


 Our customer:

Discussing on who we believe our customer is, what kind of man is he, what does he do for a living, what does he enjoy etc.  We will explain that we aim for our collection to be age neutral/ageless as we would like not only COS existing male customers to buy our collection but also not to forget about the elder generation in men (as discussed as part of a previous blog post - here.)  We also plan to talk about how that as we have a unisex outfit as part of our collection, and as we have learnt from Sarah Mole that COS womenswear is designed from the menswear garments, so we have taken the same approach to our unisex outfit and believe as future development this technique could be diffused into the rest of the collection to become entirely unisex.



Our final line up, with our features, line plan and range plan:

Due to the project being revolved round the collection itself, we plan to heavily discuss our lineup as well as key garments that not only stand out to us, as a team, but that have unique features and inspiration/development behind them that make the garments so interesting. For example, Sophie's shirt is based upon her initial development of a round chair cover that was draped over the stand giving her the shapes and drape seen in her shirt pattern.


Zero waste:

As the brief and Sarah's presentation to us explained the concept and idea about being sustainable and achieving maximum efficiency in lay plans and minimum fabric wastage, we decided to discuss this matter in detail too and how as a group we are planning on confining to these standards; creating pocket bags out of scraps, combining variants and lay plans for garments using the same fabric, using 3d fit to eliminate the need for initial toiles and fittings, etc.

Tuesday, 4 April 2017

LIVE PROJECT : COS #12

FRIDAY 31st MARCH :

This was the last session before we broke up for Easter so in today's session I wanted to get a lot of work done so I would feel confident continuing it alone whilst at home for easter, but also so that not only myself- but the rest of the group too didn't feel too stressed whilst we were away from each other for two weeks.

To be honest, Myself and Faye felt like we had hit a brick wall with this skinny trouser pattern, as it has taken longer than we expected to achieve the correct fit, but also due to the fact that we still haven't put in our panel seams, or figured out how we are going to create "zero waste".

I decided that I wanted to start on my coat pattern as I knew that I could make a start on Lectra by altering an existing pattern to get a rough idea of what shape silhouette I wanted, and place this on 3D before making a real toile.  Firstly, I imported an existing 'Mens Loose Fitting Jacket ' block into my file and placed this immediately into 3D fitting to see what shape and fit this block had.  To my realistaion it wasn't as 'loose-fitting' as imagined so i altered the blocks to be wider - by expanding each side seam by 1cm, and I also lengthened the hem to it came mid-thigh on the 3D digital model.


After I achieved my initial body shape of the coat, I created a storm flap, using the drawing tools on Lectra; such as - straight, and semi-circular.  Ensuring that all the points joined up, I cut this piece out - making sure that the seams remained on the newly cut pattern piece.  I also created the panels I wanted from my design.  My idea for the coat was to have no side seams (potentially no centre back seam as well) but just a seam that ran down the front of the coat, and angled towards the back; as you can see in the first picture below.  Within this seam, on the slant, I would like to place an in-seam pocket.


In order to achieve the minimal seams I joined the front bodice piece to the side panel and then the back bodice piece to this.  When i achieved the joined up pattern I again used the straight line tool to roughly draw where I wanted the seam, and afterwards cut this piece out so it became two separate pattern pieces.  For this toile process I kept the two-piece sleeve the same as i am undecided as to whether or not I am going to keep this or change it.  I wish to make a first toile up in calico and decide from that point on.  Below is a screenshot of my current pattern plan.  What I wish to do this Easer holiday is make up my 1st initial toile and make changes if need be, after this I would like to work out ways to improve fabric efficiency which will subsequently result in me altering certain pattern pieces to achieve the best.  I have already had thoughts that I could lower the sleeve seam to become a dropped sleeve - as this would reduce the curve in the sleeve seam and sleeve head; resulting in a boxier shape, and thus the more boxy shapes, the more likely they will slot together in a lay plan.





Saturday, 1 April 2017

LIVE PROJECT : COS #11

 THURSDAY 30th MARCH :

As a group we decided to meet in university to work on our trouser toiles together, and additionally we decided to select fabrics for each garment so that Sarah can start on creating the range plan, which also meant we could get an idea of what the collection line up would look like as a whole.   Sophie showed us all her final illustrations of our outfits (see below) and we used these drawings to help select our final fabrics.

As a group, we initially decided that we wanted to us the majority of the pink toned colour palette, and therefore pull similar colours from the other two palettes that would sit well amongst the other fabrics. In the end, we decided on 10/11 fabrics that we would like to use in our collection.  Using Adobe photoshop and illustrator, we then scanned in these fabric swatches and applied them to our digital designs, which allowed us to visualise the line up as a whole.  This helped us make a few tweaks here and there to ensure that we all felt the collection sat cohesively when lined-up.



As for our trousers, on Thursday's afternoon session we collaboratively worked on the straight leg trouser and skinnier trouser to try and achieve the desired fit on both.  We seemed to of all had issues with getting the fit as once we both (Myself, Faye, Rachael and Alice) opened the waistband it totally altered the fit on the leg. We started by creating the toiles and putting in the waistbands with elastic to get a rough idea of what it would look like in person.  Then we tried them on our model; Charlie, who helped tell us how they felt - if they were tight in places, uncomfortable and even his personal opinion.  We then turned the toiles inside out and pinned together the side seams in paces where we felt we could take in the leg width to ensure they fitted a bit better.