Tuesday, 4 April 2017

LIVE PROJECT : COS #12

FRIDAY 31st MARCH :

This was the last session before we broke up for Easter so in today's session I wanted to get a lot of work done so I would feel confident continuing it alone whilst at home for easter, but also so that not only myself- but the rest of the group too didn't feel too stressed whilst we were away from each other for two weeks.

To be honest, Myself and Faye felt like we had hit a brick wall with this skinny trouser pattern, as it has taken longer than we expected to achieve the correct fit, but also due to the fact that we still haven't put in our panel seams, or figured out how we are going to create "zero waste".

I decided that I wanted to start on my coat pattern as I knew that I could make a start on Lectra by altering an existing pattern to get a rough idea of what shape silhouette I wanted, and place this on 3D before making a real toile.  Firstly, I imported an existing 'Mens Loose Fitting Jacket ' block into my file and placed this immediately into 3D fitting to see what shape and fit this block had.  To my realistaion it wasn't as 'loose-fitting' as imagined so i altered the blocks to be wider - by expanding each side seam by 1cm, and I also lengthened the hem to it came mid-thigh on the 3D digital model.


After I achieved my initial body shape of the coat, I created a storm flap, using the drawing tools on Lectra; such as - straight, and semi-circular.  Ensuring that all the points joined up, I cut this piece out - making sure that the seams remained on the newly cut pattern piece.  I also created the panels I wanted from my design.  My idea for the coat was to have no side seams (potentially no centre back seam as well) but just a seam that ran down the front of the coat, and angled towards the back; as you can see in the first picture below.  Within this seam, on the slant, I would like to place an in-seam pocket.


In order to achieve the minimal seams I joined the front bodice piece to the side panel and then the back bodice piece to this.  When i achieved the joined up pattern I again used the straight line tool to roughly draw where I wanted the seam, and afterwards cut this piece out so it became two separate pattern pieces.  For this toile process I kept the two-piece sleeve the same as i am undecided as to whether or not I am going to keep this or change it.  I wish to make a first toile up in calico and decide from that point on.  Below is a screenshot of my current pattern plan.  What I wish to do this Easer holiday is make up my 1st initial toile and make changes if need be, after this I would like to work out ways to improve fabric efficiency which will subsequently result in me altering certain pattern pieces to achieve the best.  I have already had thoughts that I could lower the sleeve seam to become a dropped sleeve - as this would reduce the curve in the sleeve seam and sleeve head; resulting in a boxier shape, and thus the more boxy shapes, the more likely they will slot together in a lay plan.