Saturday, 29 April 2017

LIVE PROJECT : COS #17

Wednesday26th, Thursday 27th and Friday 28th April:

I had the Wednesday and Thursday off uni as I wasn't timetabled in, however I was very productive at home instead as I knew there wouldn't of been a lot of table space or free sewing machines available on uni campus.  I cut out my coat toile in medium weight calico, and stitched it together creating the shell of the coat. 


- IMAGE OF COAT PRE-ALTERATIONS -

On the Friday when I returned to university, as a group we had a toile review with two of our tutors; Jodie and Alena.  We went through the group progress, showing them what we had already toiled and what was to be completed.  Firstly, I showed my trousers to them which were both agreed that they were ready to be made, which was pleasing to hear.  I then showed my coat toile displaying it on Charlie (a team member but also our model).  A few areas were discussed that I needed to alter/adapt, such as...



 - The collar that was grown onto the front flap wasn't the correct shape on the first toile and laid too flat against the neck.  Therefore, I cut into the collar at multiple parts and opened up these slashes (pinning spare calico scraps behind to hold into place.)  This added length, opened up the collar and made the CB correct - before it was slanted out of shape.  I then will add 2cm seam allowance to the CB of the collar too, and digitise this into the Lectra system.


-The sleeve hem was too wide so I will alter this by making it 10cm smaller. The sleeve was also too long in length due to lowering the shoulder/sleeve head, and therefore I plan to take off 5cm off the hem line which still allows for 2cm turn up (7cm 'taken off' in total).


- I need to lower the under arm seam and thus reshape the arm hole and sleeve head. This was because the coat was a little tight on the shoulder area and little movement could be made with the arms due to this.


Another alteration that was made to our attention is to be consistent in the lengths of our garments.  For example, as our outfits walk down the catwalk we want each garment to look part of a collection, and therefore continuity is key.  Leona's poncho is made quite long and so is my coat so it was pointed out that we should make both garments similar in length so that it is made clear this length in outwear is a trend that we believe will be in Autumn/Winter 2018.  

After the alterations were noted, we double checked the fabric and in fact realised it was not how we remembered it to be.  It is in fact a dark grey knit which has been bonded to a black lightweight cotton to give it the soft appearance and feel of a jersey like fabric.  We analysed whether or not this was a suitable fabric choice due to wanting my garment to be a coat and an outerwear piece.  We draped the fabric onto Charlie - placing the knit down so the front flap would reveal the right side. However, we thought this fabric could still work, and if I got rid of the storm flap, and put a facing on the flap it would make the garment become a sort of cardigan jacket type of clothing piece.  Due to the construction and weight of the fabric we also thought it wouldn't be suitable to bind the edges (like I wanted to) but instead overlock the seams.