Tuesday, 2 May 2017

LIVE PROJECT : COS #18

TUESDAY 2nd MAY :

Today we got our feedback from the COS team, and also comments from our tutors; Penny and Alena.  Overall, we gained lots of positive feedback and opinions from both sides- many of which commented on the exciting silhouettes and experiments which used the furniture styling to create draped shapes, within a menswear collection.  This was really pleasing to hear as the 'drape factor' was a key point at the beginning of the project that as a group we said we would like to experiment in menswear high-end high-street fashion.  It was also appreciated by the COS team that we had shown our thoughts as well as the importance to us of our finishes at an early stage of the design process. One comment said that we should potentially consider "editing the collection further to make it more cohesive and stronger".  This was a key comment that we took into consideration and discussed in today's session.

Firstly, we started with our created pin board where all our designs are individually placed as well as our line up, mood board, customer profile and fabric swatches.  We decided that due to the high enthusiasm COS had with the draped chair experiments that we should incorporate this idea/style feature into another 1 or 2 of our outfits.  As it was planned for my outfit to have a relatively basic salmon crepe shirt underneath the coat- that it would be more draped-influenced if I used the same pattern that Sophie has created for her shirt, for me to have as well.  We spoke that it would be interesting to play around with the shirt fabrics as well as each fabric would have a different outcome and influence on the drape/silhouette created.  For example if Sophie uses the pink/salmon crepe for the lower part of the shirt with a sturdier/ more structured upper fabric- the drape will appear more fluid; and how a crisp white cotton shirting fabric would create a different effect to Sophie's statement shirt. We discussed fabric choices for my 'shirt'....





Binding was another issue we discussed as a group due to the fact that we was all in agreement that we wanted to bind our seams.  This idea first originated from that when we previewed the COS 10 collection we really liked the look that binding created on the finished garments, and wanted to replicate ours to fit in with the high standard of COS clothing.  However, ideally we would like to use self-made binding; by creating our own and using the same fabric for the binding as we would for the same garment.  But after thought, we realised this probably wouldn't be the most efficient way due to cutting the binding on the bias, thus causing disruptions in our lay plans, and therefore not being efficient in fabric usage.  So, in this case we plan to source pre-made binding; colour matching it to the appropriate fabrics and using this method instead.

In the afternoon, I finished making all my alterations on the coat (which I started on Friday.) I decided against re-toiling the coat, as only small measurement alterations were made, and I felt in order to save myself time, money and fabric usage I would re-make the coat on Modaris 3d only.


Top left clockwise : front panel (left and right), side panel/back panel with arm hole, sleeve pattern piece, pocket bag, lower tail of front panel (attach before cut out fabric- detached as pattern piece too wide for paper printing), flap facing.


After I was happy with how the alterations looked, and fitted on the 3D digital model, I then placed in the fabric I plan to use to the coat digital toile.  This fabric choice has again changed since I spoke about it in my previous blog post, as we concluded today that by using double layer of the knit for the flaps it would be too bulky, therefore we changed to this fabric...



I also added in top stitching detail (shown above) onto where I might use it.  It will help the seam details stand out as this will be interesting to showcase this feature due to the fact that I have moved a the 'typical' seams and removed many as well.